About a month ago, I made myself a promise that I should be able to surf at least head high waves in two years time. Well, two weeks ago I attempted to do just that.
I went with Philippine Surfing Academy, together with some of my fellow Surfcuit classmates, to... let's just say "somewhere in Mindoro" to score some surf time in the ocean. On our way there, we can already see the peeling waves from afar. Excitement kicked in.
When we reached the beach, Coach Paolo gave us a quick lecture on safety and awareness when surfing the ocean. We also had the chance to assemble the fins and put the leashes on the boards. After the preparations, off to the water we went.
The waves were bigger than we expected and they peeled pretty nicely (except for the occasional backwash). What's better is that there were only around 6-8 of us in the lineup at a time. So we pretty much had the waves all to ourselves.
Since we were at a beach break, I was more confident and less scared (as compared to when we were in Anawangin) to attempt to catch bigger waves. When I saw a set coming, I hastily pivoted my board (1st stroke, 2nd stroke, 3rd stroke... gosh! I should practice the one stroke pivot!) and paddled slowly while waiting for the wave to come nearer. Then I paddled harder when it was just right behind me. I felt the push of the ocean telling me to pop up; and so I did. And... I did it!!! I really could not believe it! I caught my very first ocean wave! I rode it all the way to the end on the 8 ft softboard that I was using. It was exhilarating, adrenalin-pumping, happy, and all positive things rolled into one. I was stoked!
After that, the sets just became bigger and bigger. Overhead sets came. Turtle rolls were my best friend. I caught more waves and still wiped out a few more times. Each time I catch one, I feel stronger and more able. Each time I wipe out, I am reminded to stay humble and grounded for there certainly is a force greater than me.
It was a perfect day for my birthday surf. We went home exhausted but with smiles on our faces. :)
I went with Philippine Surfing Academy, together with some of my fellow Surfcuit classmates, to... let's just say "somewhere in Mindoro" to score some surf time in the ocean. On our way there, we can already see the peeling waves from afar. Excitement kicked in.
When we reached the beach, Coach Paolo gave us a quick lecture on safety and awareness when surfing the ocean. We also had the chance to assemble the fins and put the leashes on the boards. After the preparations, off to the water we went.
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| Pre-surf lecture by Coach Paolo |
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| Hmm... Surf coach or basketball coach? You decide. :) |
The waves were bigger than we expected and they peeled pretty nicely (except for the occasional backwash). What's better is that there were only around 6-8 of us in the lineup at a time. So we pretty much had the waves all to ourselves.
Since we were at a beach break, I was more confident and less scared (as compared to when we were in Anawangin) to attempt to catch bigger waves. When I saw a set coming, I hastily pivoted my board (1st stroke, 2nd stroke, 3rd stroke... gosh! I should practice the one stroke pivot!) and paddled slowly while waiting for the wave to come nearer. Then I paddled harder when it was just right behind me. I felt the push of the ocean telling me to pop up; and so I did. And... I did it!!! I really could not believe it! I caught my very first ocean wave! I rode it all the way to the end on the 8 ft softboard that I was using. It was exhilarating, adrenalin-pumping, happy, and all positive things rolled into one. I was stoked!
After that, the sets just became bigger and bigger. Overhead sets came. Turtle rolls were my best friend. I caught more waves and still wiped out a few more times. Each time I catch one, I feel stronger and more able. Each time I wipe out, I am reminded to stay humble and grounded for there certainly is a force greater than me.
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| Me, trying not to be eaten by the whitewater. Thank you, PSA, for this photo. |
It was a perfect day for my birthday surf. We went home exhausted but with smiles on our faces. :)
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